Feb
8
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Feb
5
Feb
4
Feb
1
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1
Jan
29
losing it in the Lost Valley
Filed Under Uncategorized | Leave a Comment
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As one of those iconic, even cult venues for a combined activity which, to many, is the definitive Scottish experience; namely getting hammered by the elements followed by a piss up, then the Clachaig Inn, nestled in an unchallenged position at the western head of Glencoe, is right up there with the top contenders. If the residents lounge suffers from the discreetly-fitted atmosphere extractor, then the boot-friendly hikers bar at the rear, with its flagstones, wood-burning stoves and the animated chatter of outdoor enthusiasts, is a place that will easily swallow you up after a wearying tramp, scramble or dangle in the surrounding terrain, disgorging you several hours later the worst, or best, for wear, depending on your point of view.
Precedents are always useful things for justifying the repetition of otherwise gratuitous indulgences, and given the happy coincidence of a lads weekend at the Clachaig during the past two Januarys, a certain sense of tradition was invoked by booking another such trip this year.We set off on Saturday in the knowledge that our route to Glencoe from Edinburgh was blocked in two separate places by flooded roads and so were forced to take a detour around Loch Lomond before reconnecting with the A82 at Crianlarich. The sheer volume of rain over recent days had turned mountain streams into raging torrents, and even through the misted, rain-streaked windows of the car, the angry white ribbons of tumultuous water streaking down distant hillsides were an impressive feature of a landscape heaving under the strain of coping with a grey, endlessly sluicing sky.
Glencoe is now a familiar destination and I’ve begun to notice how often certain observations are made at the same points along the road. Jimmy Saville’s house being a case in point (see top picture). He didn’t appear to be at home on Saturday. But if the positioning of his house, set right on the bend of the main road is a tad voyeuristic, then it is equally exhibitionist. The absence of net curtains or any other window covering allows a view deep into his front room, triggering speculative thoughts as to how he might occupy his time on long dreich winter days such as this.
This year the usual personnel were supplemented by a new boy. He was sporting gear of the highest quality but it’s pristineness spoke volumes. For some of the older hands, the foulness of the weather had already been grasped as the perfect get out clause for dispensing with the strenuous part of the weekend, but the recruit was pawing at the car door for his encounter with the elements and we couldn’t deny him. Error (ERROR_PLATFORM_FAILURE)
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The Lost Valley is the ideal moderate walk for sampling the grandeur of Glencoe’s toweringly rugged landscape. The geology vividly describes a great heaving ice cap, partly trapped in its downward slide to the sea, and then forced to gouge its way out. The end result of this pre-historic event is spectacularly evident. At the hanging end of the sculpted basin, where it plunges into a ravine that leads down to Glencoe’s main valley floor, a great heap of boulders, the detritus left from the slow scouring movement of ice, provide an entertaining barrier to the hidden valley itself. From the scramble over this awkward bed of dark, judderingly split stone, the ground suddenly opens out as a secret surprise; a lonely river-streaked plateau leading gradually upwards to a headwall, and from there onto the col connecting its neighbouring mountain to Bidean Nam Bian, Glencoe’s highest peak.
With each passing year, I register with some dismay the increasing risk aversity displayed in my hill-walking behaviour. I would like to think this is more down to the decreasing regularity of my hiking trips rather than a terminal decline of moral fibre, but in years gone by, I could haul my way over steep wet rock with such certainty of purpose that the trifling matter of worn boot tread or the possibility of land slippage made no impact on my thoughts whatsoever. However, on Saturday, a trivial navigational blip meant re-crossing a river which, though not especially deep, was sufficiently swollen by rain to be a noisy foaming surge which, in my minds eye i could already see myself being borne helplessly away on. I must have looked for all the world like the clumsy hesitant urbanite I fear I may be becoming, as, several times, I leant my weight gingerly on a semi-submerged stone only to retract it and try another. Episodes such as this have an escalating power to demoralise, for even as you remind yourself that lack of confidence is the greatest hazard, so you fall even further into self-doubt. As it turned out, the new boy, maybe sensing my own unease and bridling at the lack of progress, found a reasonable crossing point of his own and executed the necessary sequence of steps, crouches, and jumps with little trouble before extending a hand of friendship to the group’s most senior member and kindly steadying my own final jump onto the opposite riverbank.Error (ERROR_PLATFORM_FAILURE)
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I experienced less of a challenge with the drinking leg of the proceedings. As if its location and convivial atmosphere were not encouragement enough, the Clachaig also boasts a good range of hand-pumped real ales, so once the bar is reached, full ensconcement inevitably follows.
During the course of the evening, one of the guys with us was recognised by a middle-aged couple known to him from previous involvement in a mountaineering club. They were touring mainland Scotland in an ageing campervan and their sheer jauntiness, she, ruddy-faced and unbrassiered, he, jokingly rueful about said vehicle’s mechanical shortcomings, brought a breath of wholesome, clean-living air into a bar room otherwise full of loud groups, ourselves included, set on a determined pursuit of drunkenness.
Westerly winds had been forecast to increase dramatically over the course of the day and by the time I emerged from the bar in the early hours of sunday morning for the scurry round to our adjacent chalet accommodation, the great vertical darkness of Glencoe was an ocean of noisy air. In one of those spontaneous moments of wonder for the power of nature I stepped beyond the lights of the Hotel and faced towards the invisible bulk of Clachaig Gulley, a great wall of a hillside which drops down from the Aonach Eagach ridge and provides the most direct, but torturously long and steep descent home for beer-bound mountaineers. With knees screaming for relief, and the picture of a full pint firmly fixed in the mind’s eye, the sight of the Clachaig Inn’s warm lights winking right below you for so long but without ever seeming to get nearer is one of Glencoe’s less endearing experiences.
On this wild January night, the deep gash of the gulley and the pathway that snakes down along its side were lost in the black, but its looming presence was unmistakeable. Huge slabs of thunderous, air, racing in from the Atlantic were the irresistible force meeting the immoveable object of this bulwark of granite and quartz. Their collision resulted in a roar of such sustained ferocity, I could almost feel the fear of being somewhere up there, caught in the crossfire of an elemental engagement to which all human life was inconsequential.
The following morning, through the groggy blur of barely focussing eyes, we saw the middle-aged couple again. They were emerging from their camper van and were just as jaunty as the previous night, if not more so, taking obvious, mischievous delight from the fact of their use of the hotel car park, complete with all related facilities, free of charge. The van may have been old, but it’s structural integrity, I felt sure, was better than that of my own after a night whose beer tally had gone beyond any ability to keep count. I took some consolation from the thought that although my risk tolerance on the hill might be on the slide there’s no tangible deterioration, as yet, in executing the other half of that cultural combination for which the Clachaig Inn provides so well.
Jan
25
Jan
22
that special relationship, some Northern Rock and the ‘C’ word
Filed Under Uncategorized, World, current affairs | Leave a Comment
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1In December 2006, Britain finally completed it’s repayment to the US on a debt stretching all the way back to World War 2. This removal of material indebtedness to our uniquely special friend and ally, if only partly symbolic, might hopefully lead to a more general decoupling of some of the political, economic and ideological ties that have bound us in to common, and often highly dubious, cause with the 20th Century’s now undisputed global power. An even more significant development in the re-shaping of that 60 year old “special relationship” between the UK and the US was the sight this week of Gordon Brown’s UK plc roadshow heading East rather than West, as his instinct to avoid the recession in America that some observers insist is inevitable, draws him towards the huge new markets in China and India, and with a smiling Richard Branson on his shoulder to boot.
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The oft-quoted metaphor is that when America sneezes the rest of the world catches a cold, but there are real signs that this level of dependency may soon go into decline, triggering an end to the dollar’s hitherto iron grip on the global economy and opening the way for that new world order which so excites the historians and political theorists. For the time being, all eyes are on the banking strategists, those power-brokers able to tweak the numbers and the percentages, to see if their insight and resourcefulness is able to effect a landing for the financial markets which is at a survivable speed.
Of course, the irony at the heart of the current crisis in the US is that the very aspirational ballsiness which made it the most successful economy in history can now be seen at the heart of it’s own undoing. In Britain it is the Northern Rock fiasco which has brought the scale of the wider problem to public attention, but this home loan specialist is but one casualty of an irresponsible upward spiral of unsecured borrowing which has been led from the front by those sub-prime sharks across the Atlantic. And it’s not just blind greed, but the false representations and deceptions, of which the Enron fraud case is probably the highest profile example,which has created this potential “nightmare scenario”.
For those of us who have long found ourselves at political odds with a rampant capitalism powered by a system of thinking so self-regarding that it took the collapse of the soviet union as a signal of it’s own untouchability, the current so-called credit crunch and related hand-wringing, provokes a certain amount of unavoidable smug satisfaction. If the motto could be refined to say “give the bonus-chasing, porsche-toting, ruthlessly risk-addicted, unscrupulously opportunistic money men enough rope, and they’ll hang themselves”, then a growing line is forming at the self-service gallows and all those whose own interests have been gambled or compromised by these people must surely appreciate the prospect of some comeuppance for them.
For anybody with even the most basic understanding of how the financial market operates and in the light of such dizzying levels of loan-driven spending over recent years, the current state of affairs comes as no surprise. The chains of risk, that sequence of institutions and speculators who fund a package of debts at a profit but then re-package it and sell on to an even ballsier institution or speculator, plays out like some inverted form of pass the parcel. In this game, layers go on rather than come off, and the person holding the parcel when the music stops is the loser.
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Whatever the final solution for Northern Rock happens to be, it seems inevitable that some degree of taxpayer subsidisation will be required. It is now the task of governments and the more honey-tongued spokespeople of the high-finance industry to neutralise the accompanying criticism by convincing the public that the banking industry, together with all it’s ranks of wealth creating money grabbers playing their games of financial smoke and mirrors, is core to the prosperity of all of us. The common interest which nowadays links business and politics so strongly represents a combined front of such power that there’s barely a question about whether this can be pulled off. Nevertheless, the screaming hypocrisy at the root of the entire episode should not be allowed to pass without widespread acknowledgement and a pledge to overhaul the way things are done.
Eearlier this week, and Even as Prime Minister Brown was perhaps finishing his peking duck and still haggling with Branson about a fair return on public money, Vince Cable was contributing to a Commons debate on the subject. With characteristic pithiness he pointed out that our current market-based model of wealth creation allows for an iniquitous situation, such as the Northern Rock failure highlights, whereby profit is privatised but liability is nationalised. Our government will happily turn a blind eye to tax avoidance wheezes, and predatory corporate behaviour in order to facilitate the activity of tycoons and private investment companies because, despite their apparent ruthlessness and eye-popping remuneration, we are told, they are necessary drivers of national wealth. They are worth this status primarily because of the extraordinary risks they are prepared to take. However this apparent quid pro quo is now blown clean out of the water. The banking sector chips have turned down but the risk-takers will not be expected to bear the full brunt. If nothing else, the plain facts of a government policy which so brazenly puts the best interests of domiciled taxpayers behind the comfort and convenience of asset-stripping millionaires, should be exposed for what they are.
Even as i write, the radio waves creak with the weight of various industry authorities and commentators pontificating on what, why and how. Financial markets tend to overreact in both directions, they say, and this fall following as it does the latest surfeit of pride need not lead to economic recession, the ‘R’ word. These days ,reference to tipping points is a popular way to understand the nature of the world’s most pressing problems, but the intriguing thing about the economic one is both it’s intangibility and it’s unpredictability. Scientists may argue about the specifics in the global warming debate, but with a physical phenomenon such as this, there is a cause and effect principle that follows a set of absolute, and measurable events, even if we dont yet know them precisely. The fate of stock markets, and from that the general fortunes of an economy, pivot around something altogether more mysterious; human confidence.
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Confidence in the microeconomic world (ie how individuals, households and companies make decisions about the use of their resources) is usually taken to describe our behaviour as consumers. In that respect, and so long as we believe that times are good and so far as the ready availability of cheap money really does make us think that we can have tomorrow’s jam today because there’s heaps of the stuff, then the feelgood bubble of borrow and spend will continue to expand.
Indeed, knowing as they do the central importance of the ‘C’ word in the mix, the overwhelming emphasis from the earnest voices of experts and analysts emanating from my radio is on the positive because it is in the perceptions of the consumer that the battle for capitalism’s spoils is won and lost.
But this time, the dyke-plugging of consumer confidence may need more than some light fingering of interest rates or big picture platitudes from the politico-corporate axis. The mere discovery of quite how precarious the whole financial house of cards is, and the recent media exposure of our formerly homely, trustworthy banks as dodgy salesmen, happy to deceive, obfuscate, penalise or just plain lend their way to profit at our expense, may yet affect confidence badly enough to trigger the tipping point for recession.
Some of us might even secretly welcome such a thing, in the hope that a particularly nasty modern day expression of free market capitalism will be reined in and the paradigm shift in consumer culture which is so essential to a sustainable future, will start to roll out.
Jan
19
kite flying in kabul
Filed Under Uncategorized | 1 Comment
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Jan
17
It’s only now that I have embraced, however temporarily, the life of the leisured, creatively aspiring mid-life career breaker that I fully appreciate quite how well a desk job has so far insulated me from the soul-gnawing angst of January. Life in an open plan office may seem like a fluorescent-lit tedium of unsupportable futility from the inside, but those semi-comatose days, only occasionally enlivened by somebody else’s fuck up or a stab of job insecurity now seem like a structured certainty of almost benevolent proportions.
That’s not to say that meandering from one Wifi-enabled coffee shop or bar to the next, hoovering up the state of the world from the web, raking the newspapers and endlessly picking over one’s slate of potential projects for the week or month ahead with regular interludes for exercise and fresh air is not a highly attractive prospect. Because it is. The problem lies in the difficulty of turning such a prospect into reality.
Even when a cunning plan for the day seems to be forming itself at around the second cup of tea of the morning stage, a steady build up of other possibilities can quickly form a mental logjam, seriously undermining the structural integrity of the initial purpose and triggering a form of domestic paralysis through surfeit of choice. Before you know it, lunchtime has come and gone and the short day is being drawn back to the darkness from whence it came. And with each new morning, an even bulkier project slate to ponder over.
Caught so pitifully thus, in a cabin-fevered incarceration of one’s own making, it is often only the interventions of others which present any hope of getting out. It was my daughter’s day off work yesterday and she kindly suggested a city centre rendezvous. A tangible arrangement such as this could brook no prevarication and in this respect represented, unwitting though it may have been, a supreme act of mercy towards the old man. Yet another attempt to navigate the impenetrable communication defences of Vodafone to query my latest extortionate phone bill would have to wait. This was my ticket to the outside world.
It’s a world I have seen little of during my winter confinement. But it was also one I could have predicted. The shopping mall at St James Centre was a sea of grazing grannies and retail-sedated young mums and even on relatively quiet days such as this, the floor staff in the audio department at John Lewis were fleet-footed enough around the aisles to avoid easy apprehension.
Apart from some overdue catch-up with my offspring, I was charged with the task of buying one of those, ‘whoops sorry I’m late’ birthday cards for a family in-law. These are always funny or cute, as if either is really enough to offset the fact that some trivial life event has proven to be more important than a timely greeting. The only place I could find such a specialised variant on the birthday theme was in a traditional greetings card shop, one of those strangely anachronistic institutions, like seaside rock and Christmas crackers, which pander to a kind of perpetual sentimentality and are indulged accordingly, despite their evident lack of fitness for purpose in our modern, sophisticated world.
I still buy cards for my parents from places like this. Not because I couldn’t design and print a decent homemade one of my own, together with self-penned and heart-felt words to boot, nor because I couldn’t buy a nicer, though doubtless more expensive one elsewhere, in one of those arty, designer card shops where less seems to be more (the top end cards are mainly blank inside for your own message). But because my parents actually like the formulaic, mawkish drivel that these cheaply produced cards invariably contain.
On the top shelf of the shop lie the really big ones, designed for those who want to make the ultimate statement to their nearest and dearest. Each one fashioned from a small tree and stuffed with goodness knows how many full fat cheesy rhyming couplets inside. Now I consider myself a big-hearted kind of guy, but there’s nobody in the world that I love THAT much!
I bought the belated card, but it’s still lying on the sideboard today. As if simply remembering to remember to get the card to apologize for forgetting was enough. That was the hard part done. The rest may take longer……if ever. After all, the project slate is expanding by the hour.
Oct
20
It’s a hack’s life
Filed Under Uncategorized | 1 Comment
On Friday afternoon, i was metaphorically skipping away from the Scotsman building for the last time having secured the inclusion of my museum piece in the following day’s edition. After a three day informal placement stint on Holyrood Road which started out as a nonchalant exercise in jounalistic make believe but ended up, on Friday afternoon, with me dashing up and down the stairs of the University’s music faculty in full reporter mode, i was actually going to get my name in print.
The initially mooted 600 word page leader complete with photograph was downscaled, but i was still asked to beef up my initial 250 words to 400 and i gladly obliged. Turning a few words into many has never been a difficult task for me.
And so it was, when i feverishly thumbed my way to page 13 of today’s Scotsman, that i all but choked on my indignation to discover that said article had been reduced from 400 words to some 225, and that both style and content had been heavily reworked. Such was my distracted state while taking leave of the newsdesk team that i had not fully absorbed the fact of this last minute editorial change, and i took the foreshortening much harder than i had any right to.
It was a salutary, if bitter lesson in the harsher realities of the trade. Doubtless a paid and fully accredited member of the newsdesk team would have had more input into the reworking of their output.However, new stories emerge all the time, their relative significance shifts constantly as details accumulate or anticipated leads wither, and in a world as dynamic as this, substance will always triumph over style.
The constrictions of page layout are a further telling reflection of the industry; advertisements are the first items to be inserted and all remaining content must be trimmed, hacked or stretched to fit. In such an environment, a writerly “voice” is a luxury that the imperatives of timely story breaking does not need.Error (ERROR_PLATFORM_FAILURE)
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1 As my eye roved disconsolately over page 13, i noted the story which, in this case proved my undoing and deprived me of the 600 words together with picture of 18th Century French hurdy-gurdy which seemed in prospect for a large part of yesterday. “Boeing jet is holed in accident as it prepares for take-off at Scots airport”.
Of all the days for some dozy tow truck driver to be over-zealous with his pedal foot, he chooses the day i’m poised to make my journalistic debut. What chance has a static collection of musical instruments against such a hairy tale of near disaster. Oh well, back to the storyboard…..




